Hi tropical sunlights for this 4th episode, let's meet in one of my greatest travel surprises. Quietly nestled on the coast surrounded by Arab countries, their oil, their excesses, their prowess and their controversies, Oman lives its life peacefully away from all the dramas. It is a bit like the nice grandmother of the East that everyone likes, which remains traditional but rich of all its experience, its wisdom and its culture. Welcome to the surprising and splendid sultanate of Oman
1) Hike and swim in Oman’s Wadis
Wadis are small rivers in desert regions whose flow is very irregular due to the particular climatic conditions of such regions. In general these rivers create deep canyons in the mountains forming networks of natural pools, waterfalls, caves and all the rest. And who says waterfalls, caves and floats says a lot of fun for any normal human being.
Oman is a very mountainous country on its coastal part and every cloud that passes by takes the mountain and rains. The erosion follows its course and here are superb Wadis everywhere for our happiness.
For me the best way to experience a Wadi is to go up and/or down the whole river while swimming and climbing and hiking the obstacles on your way. A bit like cannyonning in the end but more chill. The waters of the Wadis have a perfect temperature and it's so cool that you can spend your whole day there without any problem. Explore the wadi as much as possible, venture as far as you can, you will always come across small caves, waterfalls and secret passages. They are also great places for cliffjumping.
There are hundreds of Wadis. Some of the best are Wadi Shabs, Wadi Bani Khalid, Snake Canyon, Wadi Tiwi and Wadi al arbeieen.
The Wadis are oases of fun and beauty that should not be missed during your visit to Oman.
2) Scuba dive in the Daymanyat islands
The Daymanyat Islands are located in the Persian Gulf off Muscat, the capital of the country. They are also protected as a marine reserve and are a very famous site for diving. Thousands of species come to settle in the warm waters of the Gulf. A real life‑size aquarium where you can observe the colorful paintings that the schools of fish draw while waddling peacefully. The waters of the gulf are also teeming with green turtles and this is one of the best places to swim side by side with these friendly creatures and eat some good coral with them.
From September to November another friendly creature sets up shop in the area, but this one is the size of a bus. Indeed, the tropical waters of the Omani coast are home to dozens of huge whale sharks on vacation at one of their favorite spas. The Daymanyat Islands are one of the best places in the world to dive with these gentle giants.
3) Drive across huge deserts
I told you above that the coasts of Oman were entirely covered by mountains. And what happens when mountains rise and all the clouds are blocked by the relief? Well, behind them a desert is created.
Behind the mountains of the country lies the immense Arabian desert. A film desert, orange sand dunes as far as the eye can see.
My friends, rent a 4x4, set the tire pressure to 18 and drive straight until you get lost in the middle of this sea of sand. I guarantee you that it will be one of the most memorable memories of your life.
Oman in general is an extraordinary country for road trip enthusiasts. You need a 4x4 and a tent on the roof and you are ready to explore the whole country. You can sleep pretty much anywhere you want and make the whole country your own custom hotel.
But what makes Oman even better for this kind of trip is that you can go solo to conquer the desert with your car. Of course you don't have to be a jerk because breaking your car in the middle of the desert is not the best idea and I'm telling you this with full knowledge of the facts. That being said, don't be afraid to try the adventure, it's totally feasible.
There are 2 perfect areas for it in Oman :
‑ Wahiba Sand, which is a sub part of the Arabian desert and which you can cross from north to south in 2 days by setting up your camp wherever you want. There are several desert camps and the possibility to do some activities in this desert, it's the "touristic" desert of the country but I guarantee you that it's not for that reason that you'll meet anybody, except dromedaries chilling around here and there.
‑ The empty quarters, then it is another level. It is simply the 2nd largest sand desert in the world. 0 tourists, 0 infrastructure. If you get lost there, it's Ciao. Also you can't cross this desert. Well, you can, but you will end up in Iraq.
Anyway, if you want to go to the dunes and ride solo and set up camp for one or more nights in such a unique environment. Knock knock who is it? Well it's Oman!
4) Explore Oman’s fortresses
Oman is located in an extremely strategic place. The country controls the Strait of Hormuz and therefore the access from the Persian Gulf to the Indian Ocean. And when you are so well placed, everyone wants to take your place. Indeed it is necessary to be ready to defend oneself. The sultanate had to adapt and surrounded itself with the best architects to build mythical fortresses still intact today.
More than 500 of these fortresses stand in the country like pretty sand castles. A very characteristic architecture of the region with Islamic influence and a little Portuguese, they who passed by there in the region.
It is possible to visit these splendid buildings and to really soak up the place given their state of conservation.
The pearls not to be missed are those of Nizwa and its souk, Mutrah which overhangs the old city of the capital, Nakhal, Bahla and Jabrin to mention only those.
5) Observe sea turtles egg laying and hatching
Do you remember those little turtles with which we do pirouettes in the water? Well, these same turtles are not there by chance. The beaches of the east coast of Oman are one of the most important nesting places for marine turtles. Throughout the year, mother turtles come to lay their eggs on the warm sandy beaches of the country. From Ras al Hadd to Masirah Island you will have the opportunity to come across turtles giving birth.
From July to September when the temperatures are the hottest, it is the great time of hatching and you will be able to witness the hatching and the frantic race to reach the sea of millions of baby turtles.
It is a unique and moving experience that you must live. I advise you to go to Ras al Jinz Reserve for the best experience.
6) Hike through surprising mountains
When we think about Oman (when we know where it is) or about Arab countries in general, the first thing that comes to our mind is absolutely mountains. And yet Oman is a very mountainous country whose Jebel Shams, the highest point of the country, reaches more than 3000m high.
The mountains of the country are very old and have experienced many episodes and climatic periods. There was a time when the region was much more lush and humid. This can be seen in the huge canyons carved by the water and the traces of ancient waterfalls and streams.
The relief and the work of the erosion give place to superb mountains and canyons. Nature has a lot to offer and hiking among these sceneries is absolutely beautiful. There are many hiking trails in the mountains and one should not leave the country without surveying the perched trails of the Jebels.
One of the most popular trails and not for nothing is the W6 Balcony Walk which will take you along the cliffs of the Grand Canyon of Jebel Shams until you reach a small troglodyte village and a water source hidden in the mountain. The walk lasts 5‑6 hours if you want to enjoy it. It is not very complicated but if you are afraid of heights take a shot of your only bottle of alcohol from the duty free shop authorized to enter the country to face the 1500m of vacuum all along the way.
7) Abseil down the mighty Majlis al Jinn cave
Ladies and gentlemen, here is the second largest cave in the world and the largest in which the sunlight can pass.
Majlis al Jinn is a huge abyss and to visit its entrails you will have to make a beautiful abseiling of 120m in the calm.
For the moment only cavers are allowed to go there but it will soon be possible to go there as a tourist and I will be in the first row.
This is the kind of dinguery I can't resist. Remember this name when you visit: Majlis al Jinn.
Bonus 1 : the tropical region of Dhofar
Another thing that does not come to our mind when we think about these countries. Oman has a region with its own monsoon. The Khareef occurs from June to September in the south of the country in my region of Dhofar and Salalah. This region is much less touristic than the one in the north but has so much to offer.
During the monsoon the landscape explodes into a fluorescent green and waterfalls flow everywhere in the valley. A real unexpected show in Hawaii in a country where the desert remains the master.
Bonus 2 : Sail around Musandam peninsula
The Musandam Peninsula is an exclave of Oman which is the gateway to the Strait of Hormuz. This region is also called the Arabian Fjords. The mountains flow into the sea which rips through the coastline leaving behind countless coves carved into the mountains.
Hop on a boat and sail in this beautiful environment wherever the wind takes you. Relax in the warm waters and put on your mask and snorkel to admire the local wildlife.
Alexandre Hubin